With its white stone houses and blue bell towers overlooking the Ionian Sea, Dhërmi is difficult to capture in words. It is a place defined by the scent of the sea, a sense of freedom and an enduring authenticity.

Above the village, a natural mountain spring has for centuries supplied water to a series of traditional mills scattered along the route descending toward the coast. The 1.5-kilometre historic trail, paved with stone and marked by signposts, connects the village to the sea, passing the ruins of these old watermills before reaching the beach below.

Lower Dhërmi now carries the atmosphere of a lively seaside town, its beaches ready to welcome summer visitors.

At the far end of the beach, hidden among the rocks, begins a narrow path winding through Mediterranean vegetation toward the Monastery of St. Theodore. Once used as a military facility, the monastery today stands behind stone walls, surrounded by cobbled lanes and a quiet courtyard overlooking the sea.

Though little remains of the monastery’s original form, its location alone makes the climb worthwhile. From here, sweeping views extend across the deep blue waters of southern Albania.

The trail continues toward the parking area above Gjipe Beach before descending for another 30 to 45 minutes along a rocky path exposed to the sun but rewarded with spectacular coastal panoramas.

Visitors are often captivated by the Riviera’s vivid palette: the deep blue sea, clear skies, bright sunlight and green mountainsides plunging toward the coast.

Gjipe Beach, one of the jewels of the Albanian Riviera, appears suddenly below. Once known primarily for its isolation, dramatic canyon and crystal-clear waters, it has become more accessible in recent years. Visitors arrive both by foot and by boat, filling the beach and the nearby campsite at the entrance to Gjipe Canyon.

Situated between Dhërmi and Vuno, the bay is enclosed by towering cliffs that have formed caves and hidden coves along waters that shift between shades of blue and emerald green. Local legend holds that the name “Gjipe” derives from the phrase “Bay of God.”

The area combines beach tourism with adventure activities including camping, diving and snorkeling, while the canyon itself offers opportunities for hiking and climbing through a dramatic landscape of giant boulders and a dry riverbed. More adventurous visitors can continue through the canyon’s most challenging sections before emerging near the village of Ilias.

From Gjipe, the route continues toward Vuno.

The trail passes through ancient olive groves, evergreen oaks and century-old trees whose trunks are so large that several people together could barely encircle them.

Soon Vuno appears on the slopes of the Ceraunian Mountains, one of the most distinctive villages of the Albanian Riviera. Built like an amphitheatre, it is characterised by two- and three-storey stone houses, narrow cobbled streets and balconies overflowing with flowers, vines and fruit trees.

From a distance, the cluster of white stone houses with their small windows and arched gateways resembles a fortress perched above the sea.

Vuno is also rich in cultural heritage and is among the oldest settlements in the region. Its best-known churches include St. Spyridon’s Church and the Church of St. Mary of Mesodhi.

Climbing through the village’s lower neighbourhoods eventually leads to the central square, where small cafés sit beside a memorial dedicated to local war heroes. Residents gather to watch football matches while visitors pause for coffee or a cold drink before continuing their journey south.

As the day draws to a close, the final view from the roadside above the coast reveals the first colours of sunset spreading across the horizon, bringing to an end a journey through some of the most beautiful landscapes of the Albanian Riviera.

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