Among the landmarks reflecting this rich heritage are the two churches in Gorica, Berat’s historic Orthodox quarter.

Nestled among narrow lanes in the heart of the historic neighbourhood, St. Spyridon Church is an important example of 19th-century architecture. It also holds a special place in Albania’s religious history as the first Orthodox church to reopen after the fall of Albania’s communist rule.

The imposing building, with cypress trees in its courtyard, resembles a monastery when viewed from a distance. Visitors pass through its wooden doors, climb the stone steps and enter an interior where, alongside newer religious objects, faded frescoes remain on the walls, bearing traces of age and past damage.

Historical accounts describe the church’s extensive repurposing under communism. It was used first for silkworm cultivation, then as a botanical and zoological museum, before being turned into a construction-materials warehouse.

Older residents of Berat remember Nov. 20, 1990, when the first public Orthodox Mass in decades was held there. Worshippers dared to open the church doors and hurriedly clean the building, even though the communist regime had not yet officially fallen and religious practice remained banned.

Now restored, the church welcomes visitors and preserves memories of that period. Services previously held there now take place in the large cathedral built in the city centre. Visitors are particularly drawn to the surviving frescoes on the church’s northern wall, while its iconostasis features valuable icons.

“Whoever comes here, I will welcome with great love,” reads an inscription above the arched entrance.

Back in Gorica’s winding lanes, a steady stream of visitors leads towards the neighbourhood’s other historic church, dedicated to St. Thomas. The lane continues towards the large bridge over the Osum River, making the church an important stop for tourists exploring this part of the city.

The church has a long history, dating back to an earlier sanctuary on whose foundations the present building was erected around the 18th century. Local legends and beliefs also surround the site, including stories of a spirit said to have lived there before the church was built.

Petraq, one of the caretakers of Berat’s Orthodox churches, recounts a local legend in which a woman dreamed of a spirit seeking a home at the very spot where the church now stands, then little more than bare rock. Residents are said to have witnessed miracles after lighting candles near the sacred site.

To this day, several natural hollows can be seen in the rock beside the church. According to local belief, they are the footprints of St. Thomas. The rock remains a place of prayer where people light candles.

During communist rule, the church was altered but not completely demolished. A new stone church, built over the old structure, now forms part of Gorica’s historic architectural ensemble. Inside, a simple iconostasis features newer icons.

From the church and the large cross in its courtyard, visitors can enjoy sweeping views of Berat, the Osum River and its bridges, extending up to the castle, where people can be seen standing on the ramparts.

Berat, renowned for its Ottoman architecture, is currently home to 20 Orthodox churches, both within the castle and across its historic neighbourhoods. Many are listed as first-category cultural monuments because of their Byzantine and post-Byzantine architecture and unique frescoes associated with the era of Onufri, the celebrated Albanian icon painter.

Berat’s Orthodox heritage is distinctive for having developed in close harmony with the city’s Muslim community. Each church tells a story of a difficult journey through time and of the sacrifices made by residents to preserve and rebuild these places of worship.

Today, as visitors arrive in Berat from around the world, the city offers an example of how two faiths can coexist in harmony. The Muslim neighbourhood of Mangalem and the Orthodox quarter of Gorica share the same civic traditions and have even protected one another’s religious sites during times of crisis.

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