To reach the Upper Kërçisht, take the Maqellara road at the Peshkopi roundabout, a little over an hour’s drive from Tirana. The road is in good condition, while the village of Maqellara itself is surprising for a vibrant rural life, its businesses, well-kept multi-storey houses, neatly cultivated plots, apple and cherry orchards, and the majestic walnut trees found throughout the area.

Around 3.5 kilometres from the centre of Maqellara lies Kërçisht i Sipërm, selected as part of the national “100 Villages” project for its history and cultural heritage.

The road to the village climbs uphill and leads to St. Demetrius Church, one of five medieval churches that have been preserved to this day by local residents, who are almost entirely Muslim.

Two of them, St. Demetrius and St. Sotir, have been restored and are open to visitors. They are opened on special community occasions, when residents who have emigrated to North Macedonia also return. However, it is clear that the damaged frescoes inside the churches still require more specialised restoration work.

The other three churches have been reduced to ruins, at best, or to just a few stones that serve as a reminder that a church once stood there.

According to historical records, St. Demetrius Church was built in 1892 using stone and lime mortar by local craftsmen. It has held the status of a Cultural Monument since 2007. Its roof is covered with stone slabs, while the ceiling features post-Byzantine frescoes that have been damaged over time. Every year on October 26, the feast of St. Demetrius is celebrated.

St. Sotir Church, also restored by local residents, is another important medieval religious site that bears witness to the area’s early Orthodox history.

This history is also reflected in the old Orthodox cemetery, which visitors encounter as soon as they leave the village and begin ascending towards the mountain.

Residents say the Byzantine churches are positioned in such a way as to form a cross, with two of them located on the mountain slopes.

Today, the village is inhabited almost entirely by Muslims, yet it is local Muslim residents who care for, clean and maintain the village’s old churches, providing further evidence of religious co-existence.

Demographic records show that in the 19th century and early 20th century, during the Ottoman period, Kërçisht i Sipërm stood out in the Dibër area as a village inhabited entirely by Christians, mainly Orthodox. Unlike the surrounding villages, which became entirely Muslim, Kërçisht i Sipërm and the neighbouring village of Herbel retained this religious composition for a long period.

Residents say that the Byzantine churches are positioned in such a way as to form a cross, with two of the churches located on the mountain slopes.

Today, the village is inhabited almost entirely by a Muslim population, yet local Muslim residents are the ones who care for, clean and maintain the village’s old churches, providing further evidence of religious tolerance.

Demographic records show that in the 19th century and early 20th century, during the Ottoman period, Kërçisht i Sipërm stood out in the Dibër area as a village inhabited entirely by a Christian (Orthodox) population. Unlike the surrounding villages, which became entirely Muslim, Kërçisht i Sipërm and the neighbouring village of Herbel retained this religious composition for a long period.

Until relatively recently, Kërçisht i Sipërm remained a mixed village where the Albanian population lived alongside a Slavic-speaking community. Macedonian was actively spoken in the village until the late 1990s and is still spoken today, although most of the families who used the language have since moved to North Macedonia.

The village comes alive on these autumn days, with children playing and throwing stones at the centuries-old walnut trees scattered throughout the area to knock down the freshly ripened fruit.

The village combines old stone houses and traditional cobbled lanes with newer homes and well-kept gardens, while its clean natural surroundings and abundant trees add to its charm.

Located within the protected area of Korab-Koritnik Nature Park, the village has great potential for ecotourism, particularly now that improved road access has made it easier to reach. Several mountain trails begin here, leading to Mount Kërçin (2,341 metres) and Mount Rudina (2,238 metres), both popular destinations for foreign hikers.

Local residents appear accustomed to welcoming mountain enthusiasts, readily pointing out the trails and sending visitors on their way with a smile. The village has ample water resources, while two reservoirs and an irrigation canal serving the surrounding farmland can be seen along the route towards the higher elevations.

The higher you climb, the wider the view becomes, as clouds are swept across the mountains by the relentless wind. Gradually, alpine meadows come into sight, followed by the waters of Lake Great Dibra, dense forests along the border between the two countries and picturesque villages as the peaks draw closer.

Like many mountain villages in Dibër, Kërçisht i Sipërm is grappling with population ageing and large-scale emigration, with residents moving to Tirana or abroad.

Only a small number of people live in the village year-round, but its population grows during the summer months as emigrants return and tourists arrive.

Its inclusion in the “100 Villages” programme has raised Kërçisht i Sipërm’s profile, with the village now featured in official travel guides and attracting increasing interest from Albanian and foreign tour operators. Visitors are drawn to its Byzantine churches, breathtaking mountain views, clean air and the history of a village that has endured for generations near the border.

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